DoYourOwnConcrete

Another Satisfied Customer

Pete — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 21:53:08 +0000

Just wanted to write a brief thank you for a very well constructed training manual. I have gutted and restored my entire home, and recognize when I am getting knowledgeable well thought out / experienced advice. It is much appreciated, and a very good value for my money.

-Pat Killeen

Wilmington De.

A Customer Learns The Importance of Seams

Pete — Fri, 18 Nov 2011 20:03:43 +0000

I thought this email exchange with a do-it-yourselfer may help illustrate the importance of seams. My manual incorporates seams within the process, but I think there’s a resistance out there to actually use them. I can’t stress enough how they GREATLY reduce the chances of cracking, and when installed properly actually enhance the look of the project….

7/6/2010
Hi Peter,I went through the process of making a countertop for my kitchen sink area. I demolded it, grinded it and everything was looking great until I moved it from it melamine base to another table and it broke at the thin part of the sink cut out. Any suggestions on repairing it?Thanks,

7/6/2010
Hey Adam–

How thin is it? That will help.

Let me know,

Pete

7/7/2010
The countertop is 2 inches thick, the crack is all the way through though.

7/8/2010
By thickness, I thought you were talking about from the edge of the piece to the edge of the cutout, that’s what I’m curious about. I’m guessing there wasn’t enough width there or reinforcement to handle the tork of moving the slab. On that note, did you use reinforcement?

2 options as I see it. 1) Get the slab where you want it and make sure it’s secure, then do another slurry. To be honest, I don’t recommend this, but I don’t know the severity of the crack, or your level of patience.
2) Do another piece, making sure you have as much width as you can manage in this area, taking into consideration the design of the piece, as well as the cabinet, wall, and sink. Also, consider seams. Take a look at the diagram in the manual. Concrete will have natural weak points where larger areas transition to smaller areas. There’s a lot of tork in these areas, if you don’t account for it when moving the slab. If you use seams, you won’t have to worry about this.

Let me know what you decide, and if I can help further,

Pete

7/8/2010
Thanks Peter,

The cracks happened right where you would put seems. I did use reinforcement (diamond mesh) also used the PVA fibers in the mix. I thought about cutting out the front and back of the sink and repouring them as separate pieces.

My other option that I am considering is buying quartz for the main kitchen and just doing the island out of concrete to get a nice contrast.

Thank you, I will let you know what I decide.

Adam

Common Concrete Fears

Pete — Thu, 27 Oct 2011 22:03:00 +0000

I want to take this opportunity to dispel some of the fears associated with choosing concrete for an interior surface within the home. Over the past few years, concrete has really come into focus as a viable alternative to granite, giving the customer the ability to create their very own, very unique countertop. I chose the picture above to illustrate this point. The client wanted their counters to tie in with the wall paper, so I mixed a few samples until we got the color right, even the color of the veining as well. What other surface gives you that much control?

But as concrete’s popularity grows, so do the fears… most notably, cracking. By the nature of the material, all concrete cracks. During the curing process, the material goes through a relatively (on a molecular level) massive amount of shrinking. What is happening is, as the concrete cures the bonding agents pull with growing force and the material gets harder. This is a good thing. Cracks form, but have no structural significance, and cannot be seen, especially if a film forming sealer is used (which most are).

So, why did you hear about the homeowner, that had their countertops installed, only to have a massive fissure form right down the middle?
Many reasons. Most notably, a lack of knowledge. There are several points within the forming, pouring, cabinet prep, and installation process where things can go wrong. We’re not talking about rocket science stuff here, just protocols that have to be followed EVERY TIME to ensure the best performing product. Un-fortunately, mixing up some bags of concrete and pouring them into a form can be a recipe for disaster if you don’t have a little knowledge. And, quite often that is the case. Wether it is a handy homeowner trying it for the first time, or a “contractor” who quite honestly, doesn’t know what he’s doing.

Concrete is the most creative material I’ve worked with within my 20 years of construction experience. I’ve had the privilege of witnessing first hand some artisans that have installed wonderful pieces that have withstood the test of time and look like they did the day they were installed.
With just a little practical knowledge, you can enjoy a beautiful concrete creation. For more information, and a healthy dose of that practical knowledge, please visit my website at www.doyourownconcrete.com
Regards,Peter Hawes

Kind Words

Pete — Fri, 23 Sep 2011 11:06:36 +0000

I have to say, getting involved with people’s projects half way across the country is a pleasure.

Peter, I appreciated speaking with you this morning. There is something to be said for a man who answers his own phone. I just did a quick skim of the manual and wanted to ask your advise. The job I am involved with is a large commercial bar top. It is 120 square feet, 45’ long and 3’ wide. It is down a tight stairwell with a 180 degree turn. Due to the size and entrance constraints I was thinking cast in place in three 15’ sections, but I am concerned with getting an even cure and the look of a trowelled finish. I have done some concrete finishing in my day, by I do not consider myself a pro. I was thinking about trowelling smooth and then tossing some baking soda on top to add texture. What are your thoughts? Is cast in place a disaster in the making for a first time project?

Let me know how I can help at greenleafdesignhouse@gmail.com

Satisfied Customer

Pete — Sat, 10 Sep 2011 12:09:10 +0000

9.10.11

A quick excerpt from a recent email.

Pete,
Thanks for your quick response and helpful answers. I too have not found the books or dvds to have the answers. Yours is the first to address my questions. It has been worth the $29 already. How did you get around to writing this manual?Really, the simplest answer is I knew there was a need for this manual!!

I’ve been doing this for a good while now, and noticed early on the available information was either very expensive, incomplete, or a little of both. I always tell people who are interested in it that there are just a few things you need to know to properly create a beautiful set of tops. Once you have this information, the process becomes fairly straightforward. So, why not keep things simple?

I’ve been really pleased to be helpful to so many projects out there, and hope to continue to provide the help!

For more info:

www.doyourownconcrete.com

Best of luck with your project,

Pete Hawes

Concrete Countertops…How Much?

Pete — Tue, 30 Aug 2011 18:31:01 +0000

There is no easy answer to this question.

There’s been a lot of discussion recently on what to charge for concrete work. Artisans point out the fact that quite often they get undercut by newcomers who until very recently had been pouring concrete driveways, but because of the slow economy, have been forced to go where the work is. They feel they are forced to charge less, just to get work. This of course has a cumulative effect, driving the price of what the public expects to pay down.

Unfortunately for the industry and some customers, quite often poor work is the result. Pouring a driveway, and fabbing concrete counter tops are two very different things.

A few points to make here.

Granite. Why do we always talk about granite? The last time I bought a truck, the salesman said nothing about motorcycles or SUVs…he just sold me the truck because that’s what I wanted. If you find yourself trying to convince a prospective customer that concrete is better, cheaper, cooler, more expensive but that’s because I do incredible work etc…STOP. If your customer hasn’t already made the decision to go with concrete, show them your portfolio and give references, but let them decide.

So, what do you charge? I don’t know…honestly. I charge based on the quality of my work, what I’ve charged in the past, the profile of the job, whether I like the design, and what sort of jobs I have lined up. I know that last part may ruffle a few feathers, but sometimes we all charge less when we need work, or maybe because the job is high profile.

It seems like concrete is really coming into focus these days, but at a time when the economy is down. This timing coupled with the popular perception that concrete should be comparable in cost to granite (which is also taking a beating in this economy) often leads to grossly under bid jobs and marginal work.

In the end, you charge for the quality of your work, and do the best you can. It’s a wonderful medium to work with.

A Good Way To Start

Pete — Thu, 25 Aug 2011 20:02:55 +0000

Custom Sectional Concrete Table

I’ve noticed there is some hesitation or fear in starting your first concrete project. You’ve bought the manual, but you’re not sure what style you want to go with…maybe pressed, maybe troweled? Couple this hesitation with the fact that you’re not sure what your own skill set is.

I’ve got a remedy: Practice…and make something great while you hone your skills. I’ve attached a photo of a sectional concrete coffee table.

Instead of loading a bunch of pressure on yourself, try a few pieces and finish them the way you want, letting yourself have fun with the process. Design them so that when you’re finished, you can set them on a table base you found at the local thrift store. This little first project will give you the momentum and confidence you need to get your kitchen counter tops finished beautifully.

Have fun!!

Pete

The benefits of using integral color

Pete — Tue, 02 Aug 2011 21:56:04 +0000

Integral Color

I just finished reading some horror stories regarding stains and concrete counter tops. I’m finding there are two major fears.1) Learning Curve. If you don’t work with the concrete stain products enough and develop a confident feel for them, it’s hard to control exactly how they will perform. In the end, it comes down to your application technique, and the chemical reaction once applied. If these two variables can be reproduced consistently, as well as a consistent slab to receive the stain (again, this is a variable), you will have a much better idea what the end product will be before you begin. If you don’t have the experience or confidence, it’s tough to apply stain to slabs you’ve spent a lot of time and effort on.

2) Chipping. Because the stain penetrates just the surface, if someone chips a corner on the kitchen counter top, whatever color that resides below the stain will now be exposed. This is no good. Not so bad if you’re the homeowner and you installed and stained the slabs. You can re-stain (and maybe get the exact same color and finish…maybe not), and work the corner until you’re satisfied. But if you’ve installed them in someone’s home and gotten paid for it, this is a problem you don’t want.

I know I don’t.

Integral color. Integral color is the idea of dying the concrete within the mixing process. Guesswork is gone. You still can manipulate the color with slurries, but you cut out a chemical reaction that may take the color of the slabs to a hue you hadn’t planned.

And if the slab does get chipped, the color beneath the surface is similar to the rest of the tops, and therefore much less of an eyesore, and much easier to color match should it need repair.

The photo attached is a bold integral color choice by one of my recent clients. There are many colors to choose from out there!

Have fun with it,

Pete

Thank You!

admin — Wed, 13 Jul 2011 17:38:53 +0000

Thank you for purchasing with doyourownconcrete.com!  

Your manual will be emailed to the email address you provided with PayPal no later than one business day (quite often, much sooner).  Once you receive the email, click on the attachment icon to view/print the manual.  Email any questions to Pete at greenleafdesignhouse@gmail.com.

Thanks for purchasing the manual, and have fun with it!

Pete

Blazing Sun Concrete Coffee Table

Pete — Wed, 22 Jun 2011 20:46:16 +0000

This was a fun project. Lightly troweled top after screeding, then a paint brush to draw in the sun. Stained and finished with lots of texture.

Great first time project if you are looking to get a feel for the process. If you have any questions please email me @ greenleafdesgnhouse@gmail.com

And send me your pictures!

Have fun with it,

Pete